Refining my personal palette (part 2)
- May 24, 2025
- 7 min read

If you haven't read part 1 of this story, get caught up here first!
Time to start exploring!
First, I wanted to understand more about other color analysis systems. Amanda (@shes.not.a.winter) had shared an in-depth comparison using some interesting color strips and I had seen other people use fans from a variety of companies. So, I ordered new color tools from NDU Colors and International Image Institute to help me explore. Based on my HOC draping, I knew that the darkest (lower value) colors were my best, followed my medium value colors. Adding in the True Autumn typing, I knew I would land somewhere that was dark value and possibly neutral (a mix of cool and warm, or sitting between cool and warm). I grabbed Dark Autumn, Dark Winter and Deep flow color tools to really cover the gamut. Imagine the satisfaction I had when I saw my eye and hair colors included in these new tools. ("I belong!")
Next, I purchased a few new clothing pieces that were outside of the HOC Winter fan but worked within the Image Institute Deep Winter (DW) and/or Deep flows, and the NDU Dark Winter (DW) fan. I took makeup-free "drape selfies" with the new items and items I owned that were "wow colors". Using the Layout app, I made side-by-side photos and carefully analyzed the differences. Here's what I was looking for:
Hair color - does it look darker, lighter, more dull, more saturated?
Eye color - do my irises look darker or lighter, muddier or a different hue (my eyes are green/gold hazel so they can pull different colors)?
Skin shadowing - do I noticed shadows or darkening of the skin, particularly around the eyes and nose?
Skin tone - what is the overall appearance of my skin? does it pull yellow (sallow)? do I look bright or muddy? do blemishes or red blotches show up? what about fine lines?
Lip color - do my lips look full of color, or does the color drain away?
Overall appearance - does the color look in harmony with my face, hair and eyes? do I notice my face or the drape first?
When looking at these appearance traits, we want skin, hair and eyes to look clear, 'glowing', harmonious, balanced and full of beautiful color. We don't want shadowing, darkening, flattening, redness and imperfections highlighted, dullness, or draining.
These differences can be very subtle, so I shared some of my selfies with a few close confidants to get their opinions too. One photo in particular I sent to my friend who had typed me True Autumn and she said it brought (happy) tears to her eyes!
After getting positive feedback about my new/expanded color selfies, I felt like I had gained some momentum. I started using my Dark Winter fan while swatching in stores and sharing those items on my Instagram. This started training my eyes to recognize colors I had previously ignored. In March, I hosted a #31daysofcolor challenge. The only rules were: share your real outfit everyday, regardless of how fancy or ugly or boring or perfect it was. So simple! During this challenge I shared a few of my new Dark Winter clothing items for the first time. This felt like a 'safe' way to start since not everyone watches stories, and they go away after 24 hours. It felt like I was whispering to the public: "I am doing something kind of new.." And finally, one month ago I shared my first feed post memorializing the new colors in my wardrobe.
It's funny how I really needed to tiptoe into sharing these changes, and for viewers the changes might have been so subtle you didn't even notice! Since my entire 'brand' is built around the HOC subseasons I was typed two years ago, it somehow felt unfaithful to be straying away from that idea. And look, I'm an overthinker so you may be reading this (if you have made it this far!) and think to yourself, "girl, it is not that serious" (lol).
So, where am I now?
Very much still exploring. Am I certain I'm a Dark Winter? No. Am I certain I'm not a Winter at all? Definitely not. Am I 'all in' on the True Autumn typing? Also no.
I am not a trained color analyst. I have a good eye (I think) and have learned a lot about color analysis over the last few years but that does not make me an expert or a professional. I do believe that in the HOC system, Winter was the right place for me. I also have enough discernment to be critical about differences in my selfie drape photos, and I think that feedback is super valuable as I'm testing new colors. And, it's (sort of) free!
For right now, I'm satisfied with the place I'm in. I don't feel out of harmony with my current closet. I feel confident in the colors I'm wearing and I still get lots of compliments. I'm excited about adding some new colors, but many of the colors in the Deep flow and Dark Winter palettes are very similar or identical to HOC colors I already owned. I feel comfortable with my makeup products and routine right now. And frankly, I'm not emotionally or financially in a place to get another draping and possibly getting another typing/season. So for now, I'm 'playing' with new colors and trying to fill closet gaps. I'm trying new combinations and still training my eyes to recognize an expanded color palette.
Why did you call it refining when you're really expanding?
Good question! While I am expanding the total number of colors in my toolkit (the NDU fan has 78 swatches!), I am also being more selective about which colors I add to my closet. When I was first typed HOC Winter, I went crazy buying pretty much any Winter color that was in my size and budget. After a couple months of going wild, I started checking my color ratings from my HOC draping before making new purchases. Once I had my style analysis done, it really helped to narrow what items 'checked all the boxes'. What I am not going to do now is start that entire cycle over again. The fact is, I still believe that dark and medium value colors are the best options near my face. I feel like I've got a more freedom when it comes to bottoms, accessories and prints with these new palettes, but overall I'm not making sweeping changes to closet. Honestly, it is harder for me to find items that fit my style boxes than color boxes.
But I digress... the reason I'm using the term 'refinement': as I'm expanding my color palette, I am refining the color properties that make up my wardrobe. I'm zeroing in on primarily medium to medium-high (not high) chroma colors, medium and dark value tops, and patterned, brightly colored or light value bottoms. I'm also saying goodbye to some of the HOC Winter colors and moving towards a hybrid (or Frankenstein, lol) color palette where I choose what I want to use from each system, and gather real data (in the form of drape selfies) to inform my decisions. Along this journey, I've learned that some of the HOC Winter colors do not serve me and do not feel like me. (Shocking pink, I'm looking at you) I've also fallen in love with some colors (like Acid Yellow) that I don't actually rate highly in but still love to wear. I'm using my intuition and personal draping results to build a wardrobe that makes me feel confident and authentic.
Where am I going next?
I've considered getting another analysis (it's a slippery slope, ok? haha). The two systems I've considered are TCI and a custom/bespoke. This is not an endorsement or a statement about which options are "best" - these two options feel most aligned with what I am personally looking for in an analysis. However, like I said previously, I'm not at a point where I feel open minded enough to hear the results, lol. (At least I can be honest with myself!)
Truthfully, the real work I have in front of me is to continue evolving my closet to best honor my body architecture and style personality. I have so many little projects and ideas I haven't brought life yet, and they have nothing to do with color and everything to do with style details. I have outfit combinations on my Pinterest board that I've never tried. I have a whole pile of things I need to get hemmed and tailored.
This little color palette rabbit hole has been a fun side journey, but I need to re-focus on my style journey.
What can you takeaway from this very long story?
If you feel mostly comfortable with your typing, but your hair and/or eye color isn't "in your season", you might be a good candidate for exploring*.
If you don't feel in harmony at all with your typing, you might be mistyped**.
If you feel like your current palette is too limiting, you might be a good candidate for exploring*.
If you can't figure out makeup in your season, whether you feel like you are wearing too much or not enough or just feel ugly, you might be mistyped**
*Exploring - what that might look like:
getting additional color analysis from a system outside of the one(s) you already have. There are so many companies providing this service these days, and a wide variety of methodologies, I really can't cover all of that in this post. What I will say: be intentional about who you choose, do your research first to see if they seem like a quality service with consistent results, and the results look like the outcomes you desire ("pop" vs. harmony, color palette tools, etc.).
purchasing additional color tools and doing exploring on your own. This is a good option for those who feel like they have a good understanding of color/color analysis and are willing to do quite a bit of trial-and-error.
**Mistyping - possible ways to move forward:
read other stories of mistyping. I would encourage you to follow a few accounts that have shared extensively about mistyping (@shes.not.a.winter and @trueautumnvibe are two examples) and see if their stories resonate with you.
get a mistyping evaluation. A few Instagram creators offer these services. They are generally much less expensive than a new color analysis and are very targeted evaluations to point you in the right direction.
get another color analysis from a different system. Sometimes this is helpful, sometimes this can leave people more confused.
purchase color tools and explore on your own. Again, I think this is a good option for people who already feel like they have a good understanding of color and color analysis.
I hope you'll continue to follow my journey, and maybe this has inspired you to do your own 'palette refinement'!

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